If I understand your statement correctly, you have the Furrion Automatic Transfer Switch, # F50ATS installed but are not getting power to the RV. If you have not yet attempted to isolate/by pass the transfer switch to ensure the issue is within the unit itself I suggest this be your next step.
Please review the attached wiring diagram and image to ensure your transfer switch is installed accordingly. view full answer...
Is this a recent problem, or an ongoing one?
A transfer switch will switch between power sources, typically between generator and shore power. Typically it'll either work or it won't. What you have going on sounds like a wiring issue. Since you're not getting power to the wire supplying the second unit, trace that wire to its origin to determine the problem. view full answer...
Man I'm sorry to hear that!
I don't see how a Furrion 50 amp transfer switch # F50ATS would cause this issue though, as your vehicle battery should not be able to be drained from your house batteries, and your vehicle battery should not be hooked up to a transfer switch like the Furrion unit.
Did you recently have the transfer switch installed? If so I'd verify that it was wired correctly by checking out the included instructions, because shore power should not affect your vehicle battery... view full answer...
It sounds like you have a short in your Power Cord wiring as there isn't anything between the power cord and the Go Power Transfer Switch # 34270278 as they are directly wired. I've attached a video of the Go Power Transfer Switch - Quick Connect - 30 Amp # 342GPTS which shows these connections. If you don't use and in-line circuit breaker like # CAM55306 then there has to be an issue with the wiring or the ground on the transfer switch itself. view full answer...
If the contacts on your relay are burned or pitted (see photo) then that means its voltage is dropping below 90 VAC under load. If this problem has occurred then you will need to replace the entire unit, Progressive Dynamics Transfer Switch part # PD5110010Q as the manufacturer does not offer replacement relays for this unit nor are they serviceable.
This is all explained on page 2 of the owner's manual if you would like further clarification. view full answer...
If you are connected to a 30 amp shore power service and some things are not working on the trailer then the trailer may require a higher capacity service (probably 50 amp if that is the case) or there is a problem with the transfer switch and/or fuse panel. To diagnose those problems you would need to take the trailer to a dealer that works on trailers. If the transfer switch is not providing the AC power when connected to shore power then that would mean everything is trying to run off... view full answer...
Since you have already checked the fuses, battery, and bulbs you have narrowed things down. I recommend checking the switch next. The switch most likely failed and you can check it using a circuit tester like # PTW2993. If the switch is getting power but not transferring it, you will need to replace it. If the switch is not getting power, then you will need to trace the wire looking for wear and testing it with the circuit tester to find a short then replace as needed. view full answer...
Since there is power on the vehicle side trailer connector the issue must be on the trailer. Plug the trailer into the tow vehicle and use a circuit tester such as # PTW2993 to see if power is making it through the trailer side connector. If not, then you likely have to replace the trailer side connector. Also be you are using an adapter then that adapter may not be compatible or damaged.
If power is getting through to the trailer side connector you can keep testing the wires as you go... view full answer...
When the red lights of part # PD52DCS stay on it means the surge protection is damaged and not working properly. The only solution is to replace the control board. view full answer...
Your Dexter electric over hydraulic actuator like # K71-650 shouldn't be connected to your auxiliary battery. It should be powered by the trailer connection from the tow vehicle and the only battery connection should be the breakaway battery that is connected which shouldn't have any power transfer unless the breakaway switch pin is pulled.
If the power draw you were referring to was on that yellow wire connected to the break-away switch, then that switch is bad and needs to be replaced.
I've... view full answer...
Since your 26 foot Mini Lite Rockwood has torsion springs we don't have a shock kit for the trailer we can recommend to cushion the ride of it but we do offer a cushioned ball mount option that will prevent a lot of the bounce from the trailer transferring to the tow vehicle. The Gen-Y Torsion 2 Ball Mount # 325-GH-1024 would work great for this. It has torsion springs built into the ball mount which allow the vertical bounce that would get transferred on the tongue weight of the trailer... view full answer...
Thanks for the photos. The batteries are connected in parallel which means the power output remains the same but the capacity doubles. The throw switch in this wiring is simply to connect the two batteries together and makes removing one battery easy if needed. The Deka 2/0 Gauge Overmolded Battery Cable Harness Assembly - Red - 7" Long # DW04362 you asked from is a better connection with thicker gauge wire for better transfer which also makes connection and disconnection easy and less... view full answer...
What you are experiencing is due to the Roadmaster Even Brake # RM-9400 having an inertia sensor built into it. The inertia sensor will detect deceleration and apply the brakes in proportion to how hard you applied the brakes in your RV.
I spoke with my contact at Roadmaster and he informed me that what is happening in your situation is not uncommon. Since the inertia sensor will apply the brakes really hard when you apply the brakes hard in your RV, if you do not come to a complete stop... view full answer...
The DC wiring system and the AC wiring system in a trailer does have protective features between the two; mostly handled by the transfer switch and fuse/breaker panels. But I suppose that it is possible that a power surge could have worked its way through somehow.
But I think a more likely scenario is that some how the pin got pulled out some causing the contacts inside to touch which completes the circuit from the breakaway battery to the trailer brakes. The battery will keep apply its... view full answer...
I suggest you attempt to reset using the reset button near the headphone jack, use a small piece of stiff wire to place inside against the reset switch. If this does not resolve issue, remove all power from your iRV RV Stereo, # IRV64FR for period of at least 30 minutes to provide time for a complete reset. view full answer...
I double checked with Optronics and they said the Opti-Brite LED Strip Light w/ Switch for RV Awnings - Weatherproof - Black Housing - 11" Long # ILL70CBSBAWN is dimmable so with the RV LED Light Side-Slide Dimmer Switch - Black Item # 37205-12315 you should be able to dim it.
Since you're having issues getting it to work first check the wiring to make sure you have it properly wired. On the switch the red wire will go your power source (which will need to be 12v), the black wire will... view full answer...
The wall-mount Atwood Replacement 12V Single-Panel On/Off Switch # AT91959 operates either the gas burner or the electric heating element in your RV's Atwood water heater. If the switch does not light up this typically means it is connected incorrectly or the fuse/circuit breaker for the water heater circuit has blown/is tripped.
You can use a circuit tester like # PTW2992, a multi-meter like # PT89ZR or even a small light like # RVILL33 to test the RV wiring to confirm power is reaching... view full answer...
Since your Kwikee RV Step isn't working with the ignition switch anymore I'd recommend checking the wiring of the switch and step as there's most likely an issue there. I attached a wiring diagram I took from the install instructions for you to compare to your RV. view full answer...
It sounds like the control module has gone bad on your Kwikee Electric RV Steps as it is not sending the correct signal to the motor to keep the steps open with the switch off. Therefore, you will need to replace this and for that we have the Replacement Control Unit for Kwikee Electric RV Steps part # LC379146 which is a direct replacement. view full answer...
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